Cuban Cigars, Culture & Lifestyle

Parque de la Fraternidad, Habana Vieja

2012-02-19T13:55:00.000-08:00

Right next to the Capitolio Building in Old Havana is a lovely park called the "Parque de la Fraternidad". It was originally set up in 1892 to be a parade ground for the Capitol Building next to it and to commemorate the "Fourth Centennial" of the Spanish landing in the Americas.
In 1927 the park was changed and renamed what we know it as today to mark the Sixth Pan-American Conference that was being held in Havana the following year. The name was to signify American brotherhood and therefore busts of Latin and North American leaders are scattered all around the park. A Ceiba Tree, considered holy by African slaves, was planted in 1928 using a mixture of soils from all the countries of the Americas as a show of friendship. It sits in the middle of the park encased within an iron gate showing a plaque with the participating countries. The "Fuente de La India", the fountain of the Indian Queen was added in 1931 when it was sculpted by Giuseppe Gaggini and dedicated to the city of Havana. The sculpture is made of marble from Carrara Italy.
The park sits in a very busy part of the city. On one side you have a major bus stop that always seems to be packed with waiting passengers. Another side is lined with an unusual amount of those postcard perfect classic cars. They're all taxis looking for fares and make for some great pictures. On another side you have the Capitolio and on the last side the main street that takes you down to Prado. I've been told by locals that the park turns into a major Gay scene at night. That's pretty much it in a nutshell. It's a pleasant few minute stop if you happen to be in the area. Enjoy the pictures.

The Ceiba Tree

Plaque showing the participating Countries

The Ceiba Tree

Simon Bolivar - Led 4 South American countries to Independence

Ramon Emeterio Betances - father of the Puerto Rican Independence Movement

Joaquin Jose Da Silva Xavier

Led the First Organized Movement against the Portuguese in Brazil

Fuente de La India

Abraham Lincoln - Preserved the Union while ending slavery in the US

Juarez - Was a Strong leader for Mexico when they needed one most

To your left, going North, you go towards the blvd. "Prado" which takes you to the ocean

Jose Bonifacio de Andrada

One of the most Important Mentors of the Brazilian Independence

The One side of the Park with the street lined with Classic Old Cars working as Taxis

Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, Habana

2012-02-18T12:19:00.000-08:00

There isn't really to much said about this church as far as I can see. I've driven by it so many times but because it's on a busy street and I'm always on my way to somewhere, I've never stopped to take a look. After 7 years of driving by it, on this trip I finally walked by it and decided to step in.
It's located on Avenida Salvador Allende (Reina), a street that takes you right into Old Havana by the Parque de La Fraternidad that's next to the Capitolio building. You can't miss this church, you see it from a distance with one of the highest bell towers in Havana at 77 meters (253 ft). Built in the early 20th century, between 1914-1923. It was consecrated in 1923. It was built and still run by Jesuits. When you enter this church you enter another world, you don't feel you just left a busy street in Havana. Inside it's dark and peaceful. Know for it's stained glass windows detailing the life of Christ. It truly is something beautiful to behold. This church is also known by 2 other names "Parroquia del Sagrado Corazon de Jesus y del San Ignacio de Loyola" or simply as "Iglesia de Reina".

The Mercado, Habana Vieja

2012-02-16T21:48:00.000-08:00

The Mercado (market) conjures up memories of my youth spent in Italy. I love open-air markets. Sure, we have them here in Canada in the summertime but they're not the same. Here they're clean and tidy with lots of room. In Cuba they're dirty and crowded but that's what I call colourful. For me, going to the market is an experience. Nothing bad has ever happened to me but I'm always aware of my surroundings. In Cuba, the market is not an outing on a Sunday afternoon with family in-tow like here in my country. All Cubans depend on one market or another, 7 days a week, as the place to buy they're produce. There are no Supermarkets in Cuba that sell fresh produce, only frozen & imported that usually isn't available on the Island. Cubans don't buy that stuff, we foreigners do. Like everywhere around the world, Cubans complain that prices keep rising. I can't tell going to the market because for me as a foreigner the prices seem ridiculously cheap. I mean no disrespect to the Cubans and their situation. I have a lot of Cuban friends from all walks of life and I understand what they're going through. With 10cuc I can't carry the fruit and vegetables I can buy. Another thing I've come to realize is that you only find what's in season. It used to be more evident in the past but I've noticed a change. With the laws changing over the past few years and the government allowing unused tracts of land to be leased for free to whoever is willing to work it, I've noticed more product available at different times. I haven't heard talk of a shortage for a while either. It might not seem like much but it's progress. This market in the pictures is the biggest in Havana and my favourite. If you don't find what you're looking for here it's unlikely you'll find it anywhere else in the city. That's a big reason for me to come here, one stop. It's located in Old Havana, so if you rent here as I used to, you can walk there as I used to. It's not in a bad part of Old Havana, just a neglected part but that's changing too. You have nothing to be afraid of, I recommend you pay it a visit if you're in the area. One more thing, they use their currency. If you pay with CUC, expect Cuban pesos for change. They will give you 24-25 pesos per CUC.

video clip http://youtu.be/1-LAngFqP54
http://youtu.be/K0sMWSHYLeE

I regret to say I have no pictures taken from across the street. I hope to remedy that soon.

Address: corners of Corrales y Avenida de Belgica (Egido)
Hours: Mon-Sat 8am-6pm Sun 8am-2pm

H.Upmann Magnum 50 (review)

2012-02-15T09:55:00.000-08:00

I haven't had one of these sticks in a while and was looking forward to it. This one was one of the re-releases from 2008. I've kept it hidden in the back of my humidor but it was time to smoke it.
The wrapper was a dark Cafe Latte colour, a little bumpy, with no visible veins and slightly oily. This cigar was firm to the touch but once lit had a perfect draw and stayed that way to the end. The burn started perfectly even and it had a mild-medium body flavour. I picked up hints of wood and toffee and after the first inch the burn was still even. As it approached the halfway mark it got a little stronger and peppery with hints of tea. Close to 1/3 to the end it began to burn uneven but I touched it up with my torch. At this point it started to pick up strength and kept getting stronger and stronger. At about 1/4 to the end the cigar blew up on me, that is it expanded and the flavour turned bad on me so I put it down with the intent not to smoke any more. Anyone who knows me knows I have no patience with cigars when that happens. Being near the end I had no issues, the cigar had been great. After a few minutes I couldn't resist so I relit it. To my surprise, the harshness I had tasted previously was gone and although it looked terrible and was a bit strong, it actually tasted fine and burned well. I smoked it nearly down to the end.
This smoke was as good as I remembered it and it had matured quite nicely. I would recommend this cigar to anyone who asks and I'm glad Upmann added it to their line-up. However, from what I remember, when buying a current box, they will need a bit of age. Any current releases will not taste exactly like the one I just smoked and will need a few years to mature. The one I smoked had 4 years of age.

H.Upmann Royal Robusto (review)

2012-02-13T08:55:00.000-08:00

I hadn't tried this cigar yet believe it or not, so I was looking forward to it. This cigar was slightly firm to the touch and looked a little bumpy with an almost veinless, dark wrapper. It wasn't the prettiest looking cigar. The pre-light draw tasted a little nutty. Once lit, the draw was slightly firm with a medium body. The burn started a little uneven and continued that way until about the first inch. I wasn't liking the start of this cigar. The draw was a little tight and I wasn't getting too much smoke out of it. After the first inch however, the burn straightened out and the cigar opened up. Now it was smoking great with a perfect draw, a little creamy, toasty and woody but all very slight, a mild cigar for my taste but not bland. A typical Upmann flavour. Started to pick up strength at about the halfway mark but I noticed a change in the draw so I flicked the ash to find it burning faster in the center so I touched up the outside with my torch. At this point the cigar was still tasting great but at about 1/3 to the end the flavours started to get a bit harsh, the draw became a bit tighter and it started to burn a bit hotter. It even went out on me at this point. It open up again shortly after that and started to taste good again but being near the end the cigar began to get a little bitter. The last third was a rollercoaster, going from good to bad every few draws. Although this cigar is mature for it's age, I believe it can use a little time to rest. All in all, a good smoke. It wouldn't be on the top of my list of cigars to buy but I'm looking forward to smoking one down the road to see how it changes.

Ramon Allones, Allones Extra EL 2011 (cigar review)

2012-02-08T22:42:00.000-08:00

I had my first Allones Extra the other night and all I can say is wow. I'm not the only person saying that. Anyone that I know that has tried this cigar says the same thing. This is one of the best Limited Editions that has come out in a while.
A dark wrapper with hardly any veins. It started out beautifully with an excellent draw, not too firm but definitely not loose, just a perfect draw. Medium body with hints of cocoa, coffee and chocolate. The burn was a little uneven near the beginning but righted itself. The flavours went a little harsh around the middle and also picked up strength but when I slowed down they came back and stayed that way almost to the end. It could have been because I was talking too much (I don't think so) but the cigar went out several times. It was probably because it was fresh, it had just arrived from Cuba the day before. I drank "Legendario" the Elixir de Cuba with this smoke and it was a perfect match.
If you have a chance and an opportunity presents itself, don't hesitate, buy it. If you don't, you will regret it, trust me. I'm going back to Cuba in a couple of weeks and if I find some I'm definitely going to pick them up.

Train Junk Yard, Havana, Cuba

2012-02-07T15:39:00.000-08:00

Ever walk behind the Capitolio building in Old Havana and wonder what that pile of junk is doing there next to the Partagas cigar factory. Well, it is a Junk Yard of a sort but it's also a place where they restore old otherwise junk trains. Most of the stuff that's there are trains, although on my last trip there were a couple of buses there as well. Once restored (however long that might take) they usually end up at the Train Museum. I'll do a post on the museum when I have more information. For now, here are a few picks showing what you may find in the Junk Yard. Enjoy

Jose Emilio Fuentes Fonseca (JEFF) artist

2012-02-06T16:12:00.000-08:00

I showed an exhibit from this artist the other month, the Inflatable migrating Elephants. This month the artist is doing a showing at the Centro de Arte Contemporaneo - Wifredo Lam. I had some pictures sent up and these are just a few of them. I haven't had a chance to interview this artist but that's only because I've just discovered him. Soon I will visit him and tell you his story.

Cuban Cars (yes again)

2012-02-02T15:59:00.000-08:00

There's really nothing to say. You guys love the old cars, so here are a bunch of pictures of cars from the last trip I took. I hope you enjoy them.

EL Aljibe (best chicken in Havana, Cuba)

2012-01-30T15:22:00.000-08:00

I haven't been to EL Aljibe in a couple of years during which I had heard the quality of the food had diminished due to the fact that the chef had left. A few months ago someone had told me he was back and the chicken is the same as before. Since I was staying in Miramar I decided to pay them a visit and either confirm or dispel the rumours.
The restaurant is very rustic and except for a private room it's open air or what Cubans call a Ranchon. The area is outside but covered with a thatch roof and has a solid floor. It's not particularly pretty but it's comfortable and there's no issue with my cigar smoking. They have a few things other than chicken but most people, myself included, go for the chicken. The chicken is all you can eat by the way. It's not cheap by Cuban standards 12cuc per order but you will definitely walk away full. Also included in that price is all the side dishes; rice, black beans, salad, plantines and french fries. You can't possibly eat everything including the chicken. Two chicken dinners, one dessert, 3 beer and one coffee, 35.20cuc with the so called 10% tax. I don't consider that too expensive but you can pay a lot less for chicken in Cuba.
They have an extensive collection of wines but don't have a wine list, or at least they didn't have one on my visit before this one. You go into the wine room or cave and pick out the wines to get the prices. Something else the restaurant has is a quaint little cigar shop with a pretty good selection of cigars. Just in case you forget yours back at the hotel or want to smoke something different than what you have. It even has a little lounge area with a couple of comfortable chairs but the place gets really smokey due to it's size. Prices for cigars are the same across the island so buying them here is not more expensive.
After all is said and done, I loved it. I would definitely return again and recommend it to anyone who is the area. Would I go if I'm staying in Old Havana?? That's the reason why I haven't been in a while. Include a 10cuc cab ride there and back from Old Havana plus all your tips and that meal for 2 now costs 50cuc. There are a lot of places that offer great food for less than that all within walking distance in Old Havana.

EL Aljibe
Calle 7 e/24 y 26
Miramar, La Habana
tel 07 204-1583 & 07 204-1584

Hotel Nacional Lobby & Patio

2012-01-26T11:54:00.000-08:00

On my last post I said that I thought The Melia Cohiba had one of the nicest lobbies in Havana. I have to add the lobby-patio at the Hotel Nacional as another one. If just for the history of the hotel and the comfort of their patio out back. Almost everyone I know that has been to Havana has been to the Hotel Nacional patio and loves it. Huge comfotable chairs, the ocean just down the path and the sounds of traditional Cuban music being played by a seasoned trio. What's there not to like, it's one of the nicest places to smoke a cigar and relax in Cuba. The drawback is that the drinks are a bit expensive by Cuban standards, a beer is 3cuc and a cocktail 4-5cuc. However, everything is relative and those same drinks would be more than double that price where I live and the atmosphere wouldn't come close.
The lobby isn't the most beautiful in Cuba but many famous people have walked through it's halls; Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole (who permormed there), Winston Churchill, Ernest Hemingway, Ava Gardner & Meyer Lanksy (who owned the Casino), to name a few. How can you not feel something walking through this lobby. It still has the feel of 'days gone by'. I've never stayed at this hotel but would like to one day. If I get that opportunity I'll do a better write-up. Enjoy these pictures for now.

Link to a video clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6lID2OVEGQ

Cuban New Year's Dinner

2012-01-23T10:17:00.000-08:00

                 Anyone who tells you the food sucks in Cuba & that they dont have a cuisine have only stayed in all-inclusive resorts and never ventured off the beaten path. Those of us who travel to Havana or other cities with no all-inclusives and sometimes no hotels understand otherwise. You may still find bad Cuban food in a Cuban's home but they do have a cuisine. It's only limited to the materials they have at hand or their abitity to cook them. I have the good fortune of having friends who cook it well.
                  New Year's Eve is a big holiday in Cuba and the streets are buzzing with activity. At a certain hour, later in the day, you might even catch a whiff of roast pig in the air. Many Cubans will kill a pig or at least get one already killed and ready for the spit. They may not eat too well the rest of the year but they do it good on this night. The house where I was invited was no different. This particular family doesn't eat too poorly the rest of the year but the holiday dinner is always a lttle special. Plus, with my coming, they prepared all my favourite dishes. I only eat this in Cuba. I was looking forward to it.
                 "Chicharo's". They had them cooking in the pressure cooker, they are like the split-pea of Cuba. You can soak them overnight but this way is quicker. They take about an hour in the pressure cooker. You cook them with small bits of meat but in this case they used some fat. Saute green peppers, garlic, onions & cilantro & add to the beans when they're almost done. Remove the beans & add to blender. Strain over pot adding cumin, bay leaf & squash. They eat this as a soup or pour it over their white rice.
                  "Platano Maduro". I love these things, they're like natures candy. It's kinda like our banana, sweet & mushy. They just deep fry it until it becomes golden brown. So sweet.
                   "Chicharrita". They are like plantine chips. Just slice and fry. They start frying these things up hours before dinner is ready. It's the snack food that goes perfect with the Bucanero beer.
                   "Malanga". This root plant can be used in a number ways. Starchy, served mashed up like potatoes sometimes but tonight they made "Frittura di Malanga". After peeling the root, it's grated adding garlic & onion, chop together. When everything is mixed, add one whole egg & mix together making like a mash, form the shapes with a couple of spoons and fry. Everyone loves these.
                      "Yukka". Just boil it. I believe the key is to pick the right one. The sauce that's poured on top is; garlic puree, sour orange (or lemon) & vegetable oil. Just pour the heated sauce over the halved yukka.
                      "Roast Pork". This was more like something we would see. They used the rack with the steak. It was a beautiful piece of meat with a nice slab of fat on one side. They cooked it with; tomatoes, carrot, onion, butter and white wine, turning it occasionally. Once cooked, it's sliced & placed on a cooking tray. When the tray is full, the sauce with the chopped vegetables is poured over the meat & placed in the oven once again for a few minutes.

Dinner's Served

The Raw Dried Chicharo

The Sauce that will be added to the Chicharo in the Pressure Cooker

The Chicharo removed from the Cooker, strained & remaining ingrdients added

Platano Maduro

Chicharritas

Malanga Root Cleaned

Malanga Peeled

Malanga Grated

Malanga with remaining ingredients preparing for frying

Yukka just boil

Yukka topped with sauce

Pork rack raw with garlic marinade

Pork rack first viewing

Adding Tomatoes

Turn the meat and vegatables over

Slice the meat and place on a baking pan

Top with vegetable mixture and bake for a few minutes more

Melia Cohiba Hotel Lobby & LCDH (cigar shop)

2012-01-22T11:43:00.000-08:00

               I have never stayed in this hotel but have been here many times for one reason or another. Friends of mine have stayed here but everyone's opinion on a topic is different than the next guys so I won't use their impression. In my opinion, this is one of the nicest hotel lobbies in Havana. It's expansive, has great stores (not cheap), a couple of nice bar areas (again, not cheap), restaurants and of course the 'La Casa de Habano' on the second floor.
                I've had the opportunity to be there for several cigar events both upstairs in one of the banquet rooms and out back by the pool area and can tell you they do them well. The set up of the spaces, the food & service is A1. The decor in all the spaces is modern with the use of lots of marble. On this particular trip they had over 60 paintings displayed, all from different Cuban artists. Almost every wall in the hotel lobby had one or more paintings of some kind hanging on it. It was like an Art Gallery.
                The Cigar shop was one floor up. Take the visible escalators up one floor and double back. It would be to the left, to the right is a restaurant. On this day they had the roller set up outside the shop. Upon entering you'll see the humidor directly in front of you and the bar is to your immediate right. They have a decent selection of cigars and I picked a Boli Gold Medal. It was one of the best I've smoked. If you can get your hands on some now, do it. They've stopped production on them for now and when they run out at the stores, that's it. This one was spectacular. I had it with a Havana Club Anejo Especial. The bar was very well stocked with a variety of cocktails available. Even a sangria (surprise) which is the drink my guest had. We were lucky enough to have an actual bartender available. The place is never too busy and the lounge area is quite large and comfortable. There's a stage and on occasion they have live music playing. A rum, two espresso and a Sangria was around 8cuc (not including the cigar). Not bad, the rum was 3.50 and was a double shot by Canadian standards.
                  After all is said and done, it's just a hotel lobby but if you need to buy an emergency dress or pair of shoes, this is a good place to start. Let's not forget the LCDH, if you're looking for something in the way of cigars it's also worth a visit.

Lobby Bar

Lounge and Bar

The Shops

Bar in La Casa de Habano

La Casa de Habano

Jose Emilio Fuentes Fonseca and his Migrating Inflatable Metal Elephants

2012-01-19T11:32:00.000-08:00

Jose Emilio Fuentes Fonseca who goes by the name of Jeff is one of my current discoveries when it comes to Cuban artists in Cuba. I have only seen one of his works or I might have seen more but this one particular piece or pieces have caught my eye. How can't it catch your eye. It takes up a huge area outdoors. They are Huge Inflatable Metal Elephants that have been moved around to about half a dozen different spots in Havana. They were originally released at the 10th Havana Biennial at a small square just before your enter Calle Obispo. Since then they have moved them around together to mimic the migratory habits of the elephant which is to always move together. I have nothing more than a few pictures of the exhibit a website that might be of interest and his email. Hope to have more in the future.
The Biannual Art Exhibition is on again this year May 11 - June 11 all over Havana. Although I've never been to it I'm going to try my hardest to make it this year because I imagine it's going to be amazing. There will be artists from all over the world participating. The theme this year is "Social Imagination", points of view of social issues of the countries involved.

http://www.havana-cultura.com/en/int/visual-art/jose-emilio-fuentes-fonseca/cuban-art
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jose_emilio_fuentes_fonseca_(jeff)
jeff@cubarte.cult.cu

Cohiba Lancero (cigar review)

2012-01-17T17:37:00.000-08:00

This Cohiba Lancero, as others I've smoked recently, was a perfect specimen. Way back in the early 90's when I was just beginning my foray into the cigar world, a good Cuban Lancero or "A" was hard to find, many of them were plugged. They were either rolled too tight or with too much filler.... in some cases, a handful from a box were good to smoke. Over production by inexperienced rollers was the reason, supply and demand. However, they have fixed the problem and for over the last 15 years I've been smoking some damn good Lanceros, especially the Cohibas. This particular one is dated from 93-03, those are the years they used this particiular band. I got them as part of a package with other cigars and can't be sure. They were kinda just thrown in.
It was a firm, light coloured wrapper with few veins. It had a slightly tight draw which opened up after about 15 minutes. It was absolutely perfect at the halfway point. Consistant flavour all the way through, it was like smoking a light caffe late. It was so creamy and just kept going like that way almost down to the end, no change. At about an inch to the end I was getting some funky juices coming through and just put it down. For some of you, it might have been boring but I loved it. Very mild for my taste, I would even recommend it to a first time smoker. There are times I just want to relax with a cigar, no surprises, I don't want to fight or wonder. This cigar was the bomb. I have two more. I hope they're smoking the same.

La Carboncita (the new best pizza in Cuba)

2012-01-17T00:10:00.000-08:00

             A couple of months ago I posted something about a restaurant in Guanabo that made what I considered the best pizza in Cuba. I was ctiticized for my choice and told that the best pizza was being made at a place called 'El Diluvio'. I decided to check this place out on my next trip. If I was proven wrong, then so be it. I'm all about learning new things or discovering new places in Cuba. As coincidence had it, talking with someone about El Diluvio just an hour before going, I discovered that the chef of Diluvio opened his own restaurant. Of course I was going to follow the chef to his new place and not go to Diluvio. It happened to be conveniently located just blocks away from where we were staying and was on our way back to our hotel.
             This Paladar is located at 3ra #3804 e/38 y 40, in Miramar, just down the street from the last one we visited, 'Le Garage'. At the front of the house you'll be met by a short, stocky, comical looking Italian chef with a large fork in one hand and a spatula in the other. The figure is about 3 feet tall and stands high on a pole so you can't miss it. Behind the figure is the sign. The garage is the bar and the kitchen is located somewhere behind that. The owner's wife was working the bar on our second visit in the evening and Walter the owner would come out occasionally to bring out food and say hello to the many customers that know him. There seems to be a high proportion of Italians that come to this restaurant and Walter, the owner, is Italian himself. You can bet the food in this place is going to be as close to Italian as he can get with the ingredients he has to work with. The fact that there were this many Italian customers proved it. The first visit was to have what I originally came for, the pizza. We sat outside, there was plenty of room. They didn't seem to be too busy, it was around 2pm on a tuesday afternoon and there were 3 or 4 tables with customers. I had the Margherita Pizza (tomato & cheese) with sliced prosciutto placed on top after the pizza is cooked. The prosciutto was sliced a bit thick but that just meant there was a lot. The pizza was cooked well, nice and crispy how I like it. It wasn't doughy and cardboard tasting like you get in a lot of places. The ingredients were actually quite good, the prosciutto tasted Italian. There's no such thing as local prosciutto. He even had basilico (Basil). My guest had the Four Cheese Pizza. It didn't have tomato sauce, our fault. It was good just the same but the cheeses lack the flavour we're used to outside of Cuba. Nonetheless, we would have this pizza again but add tomato sauce. Walter's pizzas were definitely better than the restaurant in Guanabo so for ME this is the best pizza I've eaten in Cuba. You'll have to go and make your own decision.
              The next visit was for dinner. It was thursday night at 8pm and we didn't have a reservation. The place was packed and we waited 40 minutes to get a table outside. Only one table was occupied in the fair sized indoor dining area. The outdoor tables seating about 40 people were either occupied or set for larger groups which arrived later with reservations. While waiting for the table we sat at the bar. I had a
chance to notice that the bar was set up with only the basic alcohol. No fancy drinks but good Havana Club. Walter came out at one point to have a chat and I told him I decided to trust him to make me the first plate of pasta that I eat in a restaurant in Cuba. He suggested the Ravioli that he made fresh that day in a fresh tomato sauce, made from field tomatoes and not from a can. It's almost impossible to find good canned tomatoes on this island. My guest had the Spaghetti al Pesto, basil sauce with parmigiano, garlic and usually it's pinenuts. In this case from what I understood it was a local nut that they substituted. First off, both our pasta were cooked al dente, as they should be, without having to ask. The pesto sauce was very good, the substitute nut they used worked. My fresh tomato sauce was very tasty, just enough, not drowning. The stuffing, pork, was excellent, just the right combination of herbs. We started with a tomato and tuna salad which came at the same time as our main course. The kitchen was fast, really fast and the service was pretty good too. For wine they only had 3 kind, a red, a white and a rose. We had a glass of red each, it wasn't bad. My guest had the chocolate pudding for dessert. They only had that and ice cream. All of that came out to 29cuc and it was excellent. I would go back for the food for sure. This place is not about the extras or the decor, as you'll see from the pictures. It's strictly about the food and I can live with that. I drink beer with pizza anyway.

La Carboncita
3ra #3804 e/38 y 40
Miramar, Havana
tel. (7)203-0261
cel. (5)290-4984

Pizza Quattro Formaggi

Pizza Margherita with Prosciutto

Indoor Dinig Area

The Bar

Ravioli

Spaghetti Al Pesto

Le Garage, Miramar, Havana (snack bar)

2012-01-16T13:59:00.000-08:00

             Walking east along 3rd Ave towards Calle 60 you will come upon a bar-eartery on the north side. Almost everyone that walks (mostly Cubans) by pauses to take a look. At night, you can't miss it, it's all lit up with Christmas lights. The place had been under construction for a while and has only opened about a month ago. It's currently open for lunch and dinner and plans to open for breakfast were underway when we were there. The place opens at noon for now & when we asked "When is closing time?", got the response "When the last customer leaves".
              There are about 26 seats outside, 8 tables that look like they are a patio set-up in North America. Really, the furniture, foliage and patio, all that's missing is the pool. The outside part of the restaurant is at the side of the house including the driveway and the inside looks like what used to be the garage (hence the name). There are another 20 seats inside with bench seating that look like a retro diner. There's a tiny very well stocked bar. The bathroom is located here as well and I'm going to say now, I feel sorry for any large people using it. Although it's new, clean, has a toilet seat & toilet paper, it's very small.
               The restaurant has the feel of being a light eatery. We initially came for the smoothie (Batido) and milkshake (Suero Helado) which was recommended to us. They were the best I've tasted on the island. Thick and full of fruit but expensive by Cuban standards, the smoothie (papaya) was 3.95cuc & the milkshake (chocolate) 3.75cuc, both large (20 oz.). I didn't mind, they were both excellent and filling. On the second visit we had the hamburger which was also recommended. I know, it's only a hamburger but sometimes you just gotta have one. They were quite good, seemed to be homemade and nicely presented but could have been served with a few more fries. I suppose I should have been thankful for not injesting the extra calories but I'm sure some people won't be happy. They did have both ketchup (not heinz) and mustard (not french's). They also have finger food appetizers and by popular request, pizza. I won't try the pizza here because I know places that specialize in it and that's where I would go for that. Things seem to be a little more expensive here but it doesn't seem to matter, it's almost always full since they don't have too many tables. The service is friendly, young girls dressed in the same uniform that always greet you with a smile. The clientele is a mix of tourists and Cubans. There's a large screen television outside, mounted up high on the wall and upbeat music playing on the stereo. Two cheeseburgers, a beer and a smoothie, 16.35cuc. A great little pit stop if you happen to be in the area.

Le Garage
Ave. 3ra., esq a Calle 60
Miramar, La Habana
tel. (7)203-0521

The Smoothie

The Milkshake

The Bar

EL Carruaje (restaurant review)

2012-01-14T12:04:00.000-08:00

               A couple of months ago, someone had asked about this restaurant and at the same time a Cuban friend of mine had told me this same restaurant was a must visit. So, I decided to give it a try on this trip. We decided to go dinner time and the place seemed to be out in the middle of nowhere. Actually it sort of was in the middle of nowhere. Travelling at night and in the Playa district, there aren't many street lights, which adds to that feeling. If you're coming from Habana Vieja, it would probably be a 25-30 minute drive. On this trip I was staying in Miramar and it was maybe a 10-12 minute drive. The house (it's a paladar) is in what looks like a beautiful neighbourhood (remember it was dark) with huge houses that were built around the 50's. The house the restaurant is in was built in 1957. The restaurant itself is only one year old.
               Upon entering the restaurant we were welcomed warmly by everyone we met and were given a tour of the entire restaurant grounds. I was even brought upstairs to the owner's living quarters and shown the lifesize Santa Claus that was in one of the bedrooms. The outside tables were set up in the backyard which had a pool and also a special table for two which they called the lover's table (I'll let the pictures talk). We walked through the kitchen to get to our private dining room (extra 25cuc for the room) and were introduced to the chef. At no time did I get any feeling that we were intruding. In fact, the chef said he was happy for us to come through and that they had nothing to hide. The private room was set up with our table for 7 but was large enough to accommodate a few more. It had a private bathroom, dry bar and this was where the wine room was located. You had direct access to the kitchen and the main dining room. Their dishes and glasses even had their logo on them. The table set up was at par with any of the top hotels in the country. It looked like it was going to be an expensive evening but once I got the menu I realized it wasn't that bad at all. Before dinner the owner came by to say hello. A pleasant man who gave us a short version of his life story. The name Carruaje means carriage and the reason for the name is because the owner began building them a few years ago. Fidel even owns one of his creations. He began by building one for his son and it took off from there. There are several located around the island and a couple in front of the restaurant.
               While deciding what to eat, a complimentary plate of chicharones was placed in the middle of the table. Chicharones are fried pork rinds, very popular in Cuba. It's not healthy but very tasty. It's not something I have too often and only in Cuba. At times they might be a bit hard but these were fried to perfection, nice and crispy but not over done. A nice little snack food to go with our Bucanero beer.
                For appetizers we had: Tostones Rellenos (stuffed green plantains) stuffed with tuna and blue cheese, Eperlan de Pescado (breaded and fried pargo strips) and Frittura de Malanga (from the potato family, mashed and fried) stuffed with ham. All were quite nice but the fish strips and malanga were the hits. As a main course I had the lamb stew and my date had the filet mignon. The lamb was cooked in a red wine sauce with onions and peppers and was very tender and tasty. A few pieces were nervy but there was way more than I could eat. The filet mignon was cooked perfectly but was a little tough (just a little) but unfortunately that's how Cuban beef is sometimes. There were a lot of nice choices and I'm looking forward to trying the Rabbit or the Whole Fish next time. Vegetables and white rice were placed in the middle of the table for everyone. The vegetables were not great but they aren't the forte anywhere in Cuba. For dessert I had the Mame ice cream. I discovered this fruit a couple of trips ago and love it. The ice cream was made in house and served within the fruit's half shell, yummy. Dinner for 7, everyone had a main course, 2 desserts & 3 appetizers (total), a few beers and 1 bottle of wine came out to 177cuc. I almost forgot to mention, we were also given complimentary cigars that they claimed came from the Robaina farm. Wherever thay came from, it was a nice touch.
                  I will come back to this place for sure and would recommend others to try it. As I said, a little out of the way but well worth it. Open 7 days a week, noon 'til 11pm.

EL Carruaje
Calle 200 no.2104
e/21 y 23 Siboney
Playa, Cuba
(7)271-4347
(5)263-5144

The Wine Room

The Chef

Chicharones on the left.

Main Dining Room

The Lover's table outside.

Outside eating area

Tostones Rellenos

Eperlan de Pescado

Frittura de Malanga

The Owner Raul

Lamb Stew

Filet Mignon

Mame Ice Cream

Our Waiter

Cigar Factory Closings in Cuba

2012-01-11T22:42:00.000-08:00

               A few posts ago someone commented that the cigar factories in Cuba were closed to visitors, forever. I found that very strange and could have called friends in Havana to find out but decided to ask them personally since I would be going there soon. It's not true. I had an idea that maybe the wokers were on holidays. Workers in the cigar factories are entitled to 30 days off per year which is usually split in two 15 day vacations. One between July-August and the other between December-January, depending on the factory. Not every factory has the same closures at the same time. It may have been that the person who thought that, might have been there at the wrong time.
                There's something else going on Havana right now. The Partagas factory is shutting down very soon for some long overdue renovations that may take up to 6 months to a year. For that reason, they are not running tours at the moment. They will be moving to the now closed Rey del Mundo factory temporarily but the store will remain open while the repairs are taking place. The last time the Partagas factory shut down for repairs was in 1989. At that time the repairs took 2 years afterwhich upon reopening the famous Partagas store was inaugurated.
                 The new H.Upmann factory has moved temporarily as well. The new factory isn't very old but due to poor construction was in need of repairs almost from the start. They are now at the Romeo y Julieta factory which was being used as a school for rollers before the move. I wanted to talk to my friend Miquelito the director personally but unfortunately the day I went to surprise him was his day off. If all goes well I'll be back in February and I'll give an update.

Petit Edmundo & Lusitania (reviews)

2012-01-11T22:17:00.000-08:00

                Well for those of you who follow me, you know that one of the smokes I came back with from Cuba was a 10 pack of Petit Edmundos. You would also know that they looked absolutely yummy. I had to wait for myself and two other friends to be together to have the first smoke from this box. They were a gift and that was the condition, that we all have one together (one each that is). I was tempted but a promise is a promise. I didn't mind.
                 Upon pulling them out, they still looked beautiful with an almost light coloured, dry wrapper. It was as hard as a rock with a slight box press. The draw was perfect with the typical Monte flavour but a little on the light side. It started just a little spicy but soon mellowed out. Very easy to smoke and I was able to get huge mouthfuls of smoke from each draw I took. I hate fighting with a cigar. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't loose at all. Just an excellent smoking cigar that burned almost perfectly. It began to burn a little uneven close to halfway mark but staightened itself out without my help. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed these cigars. I hadn't had one for a while. It started to turn on me when there was about 1/3 remaining. The ash had dropped by itself about halfway through and at the 1/4 mark I gave it up. Good to the end. A very mild smoke for my taste and would probably make a first smoke of the day the next time, maybe with my morning coffee.

                  The Lusitania, on the other hand, was almost sweet on the dry draw. Another hard cigar that was perfectly rolled. What a great night, two beautifully rolled cigars in a row. I just brought this baby back from Cuba as well (more gifts). Once lit, it had hints of cedar and the draw was confirmed. Just a hair firmer than the Monte but just as easy to smoke. The wrapper had just a couple of slightly visible veins but was otherwise smooth and a little darker than the Monte. The ash dropped sooner on this stick but who cares, sometimes it's for the better. Medium body and very much like a Lusitania and picked up a little strength at about the halfway mark. I had to touch it up a little 2 inches from the end but otherwise a near perfect burn most of the way and still tasting great. When there was about an inch left I had to put it down, my head was beginning to spin. Great night for cigar smoking despite the 3 degrees celcius outside.
                 Oh and by the way, the drink of choice for the night was a nice Rum from Trinidad, the 12 year old Zaya Gran Riserva. It wasn't as nice as the Zacapa we had with the Behike but good just the same.

Crisanto, Hotel Comodoro, Miramar (roller)

2012-01-10T12:10:00.000-08:00

            I had the pleasure of meeting this wonderful man back in 2005 in Havana. I was visiting various cigar shops in the city with my best Cuban friend and cigar guru, Orlens. One of the stops was the Comodoro Hotel in Miramar, Havana. At that time the LCDH shop used to be in the lane where all the stores are located. It was cozier at the other shop but you had to know it was there. The current location right at the entrance to the hotel is a lot more visable and therefore higher sales. I remembered him being a very gentle, soft spoken man, much the way he is today. I met him again a couple of years later when he was doing a tour in Toronto, Canada. Since that time I try to visit everytime I go to Cuba. Sometimes he's there and sometimes I happen to miss him. On one of those missed occasions he was home resting after an operation to his knee. He's doing well now and still rolling some of the best cigars on the island.
            Crisanto started rolling cigars in 1960, he's been rollin for 51 years. His career started at the H.Upmann factory when it used be behind the Partagas factory on Calle Amistad. He worked at the Upmann factory until 1987 where by the time he had finished, had begun teaching other would-be rollers. In 1987 he began working at the Rey del Mundo factory which is now closed and until 1991 at the Romeo y Julieta which in both cases was Production Manager & General Manager. The Rey del Mundo factory will soon house the Partagas factory rollers while Partagas undergoes a long overdue renovation. The store will remain open. In 1991 until 1998 Crisanto worked at the Partagas factory as Production Manager. After 1998 he worked at various cigar shops like he does now but hasn't moved from the Comodoro since 2001.
            He's currently married to his second wife. Has 3 boys and 1 girl with his first wife. The daughter started sorting cigars at the Partagas factory and currently holds that position at La Corona factory. He has visited the world, from Hong Kong to Canada and continues to be an ambassador for Cuban tobacco and cigars. If I don't see him on one of my trips soon, he will be coming to Toronto in the spring.
            The existing store where Crisanto works seems to be very quiet as compared to some of the other shops around the city. The staff in this store is very pleasant and helpful. The room is airy and well lit with several comfortable chairs and international reading material spread around the place. I chose to pass my time by smoking my custom Crisanto corona while speaking with him. I love the blend he uses for his cigars. I find them very easy to smoke and this particular one I smoked until I couldn't hold it anymore. The store itself has a decent variety of cigars and I even found a couple of boxes of the Behike 52. Besides the name cigars, Crisanto's humidor is always filled with something good. His rolls of choice are the corona, lonsdale and the piramide. If you're ever in the area go and pick up a few of his custom rolls and tell him Matteo from Toronto, Canada says hello.

Iglesia de Jesus de Miramar, Havana, Cuba

2012-01-08T16:40:00.000-08:00

                Dominating the landscape at Quinta Ave. & Calle 82 in Miramar, Havana is the second largest church in Cuba, the Iglesia de Jesus de Miramar. I've driven by this church so many times but it wasn't until this last trip that I happened to be staying close by and walked over for a visit one day.
                 The church opened it's doors in May 1953, it took 5 years to build. When you first walk in the murals on the walls, that were painted by the Spanish artist Cesareo Cosculluela y Barreras, jump out at you. The images, portraying Jesus' walk to his crucifixion, are very strong & take up huge chunks of wall using vivid colours. The church contains the largest pipe organ in Cuba with it's 5000 tubes. Unfortunately it's in dire need of a major tune-up due to the fact of it's disuse after the revolution was won. Having been shut down for so many years, you would think the church would be brand new. It does look relatively new at first glance but upon closer inspection you see spots that need a little restoration. I also noticed that some of windows should be replaced or at least fixed. You could see water damage spreading out from some of the windows. Otherwise the church is in pretty good shape. Outside, behind the church, in the garden, is a representation of the Grotto of The Virgin of Our Lady of Lourdes.
                  Overall, it was a pleasant experience. It costs nothing to go in, there was lots of light and nobody seemed to mind me taking pictures. There was hardly anyone there. It wasn't your typical dark and dingy church that I'm used to seeing. If you go by car it can be a bit tricky with the no turns but if someone knows his way around it isn't a big deal if they know ahead of time. If you're staying in one of the several hotels in the area you may even be able to walk there like I did.

Location; 5 Ave. & Calle 82

Hours; open 7 days a week   9:00am - 12:00pm & 4:00pm - 6:00pm
Mass; Tues-Fri 9:00am   Sat 5:00pm   Sun 9:00am & 5:00pm
Confession;   Tues-Fri   4:00pm - 6:00pm

Cohiba Behike 54 review (revisited)

2012-01-08T10:50:00.000-08:00

               So here we are again trying the amazingly popular Behike 54. I've come to realize that since the last time I wrote about this cigar, it's popularity has skyrocketed. Of course that wasn't because of anything I've done. It didn't need my help. Anyone who knows anything about cigars, wants this stick. I recently came back from Havana with a few boxes & was invited to a friend's house for dinner and cigars. On rare occasions he allows cigar smoking in his house. With the temperature hovering around zero celcius, I welcomed the thought of smoking in the comfort (and warmth) of someone's home, especially after coming back from Cuba. I decided to give my host one of my Behikes, which he's never smoked before, on the condition he smokes it that night. Of course he agreed.
                He prepared a lovely dinner starting with penne in a light tomato sauce with tuna, cured black olives and jumbo shrimp followed by pork tenderloin with sauted spinach and a side salad and finishing with lemon meringue pie. We washed it down with a Beaujolais by Louis Jadot to start and had a 2005 Grenache from Spain with the meat. Both wines were good choices.
                Then came the moment we were waiting for. The lighting of the famous Behike. First off, the wrapper was absolutely flawless, hardly a vein, smooth & silky with a light cafe latte colour. Perfectly rolled, nice and hard but with a perfect draw when checked on the dry tasting without leaving me gagging as some cigars tend to do. This batch of Behike 54s were slightly lighter in colour than the ones I purchased a few months ago. Once lit, right from the start, this was one of the smoothest cigars that I had ever smoked. Silky smooth, a little nutty with a hint of leather & full of creamyness. The drink to go with the cigar?? We decided to crack open a bottle of 23 year old Zacapa Rum from Guatemala. I was in paradise. The rum with the cigar was like a match made in heaven. It had almost a coffee-like taste to it which made it an excellent pairing with the Behike. Smooth, smooth, smooth. If you've never tried this rum and see it somewhere, buy it. They also make a 15 year old which is quite good and an XO version (imagine how that is).
                  The cigar burned a little uneven at the start but I touched it up with my torch and it was fine after that. There is no comparing this cigar to any other that I've smoked in my life. It maintained its smooth, medium bodied, classy flavour right down to the last inch, changing only slightly near the end when it started to get a little stronger and finally turning. This cigar is not even close to being at it's peak and is smoking beautifully now. I can't imagine what it's going to be like in a couple of years. I couldn't put it down but once it turned , I had to. I didn't want to be left with any bad memories. This Behike 54 was much better than the last one I had. Maybe it was the combination of food and beverage that was consumed this time or maybe the extra few months made the difference. Whatever it was, this was one of the best cigars that I've ever smoked. I'm just going to leave you with this. WOW

Enrique Avila (artist)

2011-12-19T23:15:00.000-08:00

I really don't have anything to say about the artist. His paintings were being show on the ground floor of the Jose Marti Memorial in the Plaza de La Revolucion. That's that tall pointed building. He wasn't there and when I checked the internet there wasn't anything there except a site listing some of his paintings for sale. http://www.artesolgallery.com/cuban_artists/Enrique_Avila/
I decided to show all the paintings. I hope some of you like them, they were a little bit busy?? for me. The collection is called 'Energias Ocultas' which translated means Ocult Energies.

Agujeros en El Espacio 2006

Ascencion 2008

Caos 2005

El Eco de Las Piedras ( I ) 2007

El Eco de Las Piedras ( II ) 2007

Interiodades ( II ) 2006

Mas Alla del Sol ( I ) 2005

Otono Desde El Cielo 2005

Paisaje Desconocido ( I ) 2004

Paisaje Desconocido ( II ) 2005

Penetracion de Luz 2006

Senales de Humo 2006

Ventana Espacial 2010

Energias Ocultas ( I ) 2008

Energias Ocultas ( II ) 2009

Energias Ocultas ( III ) 2011

El Juego de Los Corales ( II ) 2009

Hoyo de Monterrey Short Hoyo Piramides LE 2011 (review)

2011-12-16T00:07:00.000-08:00

              This was my first 2011 short piramide. It was a gift from a friend. I had intentions of picking up a box but after smoking this one I'm going to have to try another to convince myself.
               The wrapper was dark, bumpy and oily. It wasn't as dark as the cohibas. It was also quite firm, hard. I drank a rum from Guyana with it, the 12 year old El Dorado which went well with the smoke. From the start it was a good solid medium body, earthy, almost maduro flavour but not as strong or bitter. Great draw but the burn was a little uneven. Almost halfway through the cigar started to become bitter. I flicked the ash and noticed the cigar was burning hotter in the middle. By the time I adjusted the burn the cigar had taken an unpleasant turn for the worst. It had begun to taste very harsh. That's when I put it down. A little less than half was left.
                I'll try another one before I pass judgement and keep a better eye on it when I'm smoking, don't let the ash get too long. If the next one tastes as good in the 2nd half as this one did in the first, then it's a great smoke. Regardless, a couple of years will do them some good. It's a typical Hoyo flavour and will go great with your morning coffee or on an afternoon break.

Casa de Conde de Lombillo, Habana Vieja

2011-12-14T00:06:00.000-08:00

This beautiful home is located in the Plaza de La Catedral. If you're facing the church, it's the corner to the right. Built in 1741, it was once owned by the Count of Lombillo who attained his wealth from the slave trade. At one point in the mid 1800's, the building became the site for first and main post office for the city.
The building has been renovated in the last decade and now houses a museum on the upper floors and art Exhibits on the ground floor. When you enter you will go through a couple of rooms showing centuries old nicknacks; pill boxes, fans, combs..... Once past these rooms a lovely courtyard appears. This was once a great mansion. Upstairs is a museum showing period furniture gathered from around the city. Each of the rooms is set up as it would have been back in the day, with an exaggerated amount of chairs, paintings... only sitting rooms & dining rooms. On the lower floor, besides the smaller museum, there's always an Art Exhibit with some kind of theme like seascapes or cityscapes.... this is what I always come to see. It's a nice way to spend 20-30 minutes. The view of the plaza and church from the upper floor balcony is lovely. You have photo ops, culture & history and it's all free. mon-fri 9am-5pm sat 9am-1pm

Facing the Catedral....

....Towards the right, the building with the blue shutters is Casa Lombillo

The Courtyard

Various Art Exhibits

Upper Floor

Upper Level Museum

View from Upper Level Balcony

Pasteleria Francesa, Habana Vieja

2011-12-09T10:50:00.000-08:00

Breakfast, as we in North America know it, is not an easy find in Cuba. Except for the hotels, I have yet to find a place that does breakfast as we are used to here at home. It doesn't matter, I bring cerial from home or eat some fruit and yogurt. However, there is a place that I enjoy going to if I'm in the area and it's that time of day. The place is called "Pasteleria Francesa", next to Hotel Inglaterra near the Capitolio. If you are facing the front of the Capitolio, looking to your right, going towards Prado, after the Opera House, you will see the Hotel. Next to the hotel is the Pastry Shop.
The shop is not fancy and the service is neither bad or good. The coffees are just okay. I always have a cappuccino but it's basically a cafe con leche and that's fine. It's more about the pastries. This isn't France but it's not bad. There's usually a good selection of pastries, cakes and croissants of some kind. I enjoy it also because of it's location. There's always lots of movement and since I enjoy watching people it's an excellent location. If I'm planning a walking trip into Old Havana, I enjoy starting from this point. Give it a try, it's not expensive and if you're touring Old Havana, you'll end up here at some point.

Plaza de La Revolucion, Jose Marti Memorial

2011-12-01T11:38:00.000-08:00

                 The Jose Marti Monument in Vedado, Havana, which is a memorial to Jose Marti, is that big pointed thing in the middle of The Plaza de La Revolucion. This star shaped tower is actually the highest point in Havana & stands 109 meters or 358 feet tall.
                 I've driven by this thing so many times but it wasn't until a recent trip that I finally entered it. I wasn't aware that the building was constructed in 1953, before the revolution, while Fulgenicio Batista was still in power. There was a long delay before construction duy to the resolution of the displacement of the people living on the site. What's interesting is that Fidel Castro was the lawyer representing those people & won the case. All of this is shown on the ground floor of the memorial in the room that shows the history of the memorial. There are also rooms showing the biography, writings, quotes & life story of Jose Marti. Marti's quotes are written all over the walls. There's another room that features contemporary art. On this occasion it was featuring the artist Enrique Avila. All around the lower level were lots portraits of Jose Marti done in many different ways. I've never seen so many at one time.
                 The lower level is nice if you are a history buff and I especially liked the contemporary art but the trip up to the observation deck is worth the 5 CUC alone. The view is amazing, you can see right down to the ocean. On one side you have a great view of Che Guevara portrait on the ministry of interior building with the portrait of Camilo Cienfuegos who's on the ministry of Informatics & Communications building right next to it. Directly on the other side you have a great view of the library looking towards the south. It's a spectacular view of the city all around.
                  If you have more than one day in Havana I would recommend a visit to the tower. There's parking accross the street and the cover to get in should be 6 CUC per person.

Jose Marti's quotes

Jose Marti's Biography

One of many Jose Marti Portraits

Picture of an early rally

Artist Enrique Avila

The Library

Fidel's seat

Cohiba Behike 52 & Cohiba LE 2011 (reviews)

2011-11-28T15:54:00.000-08:00

                  I was going to enjoy this night. I was going to smoke two of what I think are some of the best cigars available today. The Cohiba Behike 52 & the Cohiba Limited Edition 2011 or what people call the 1966's. I started with the Behike thinking it would be the lighter of the two cigars. I hadn't tried the 52 yet but if was anything like the other 2, the 1966 would be stronger.
                  The Behike had a beautiful light brown, silky smooth wrapper. It had a perfect draw with an earthy, spicy flavor. It was as complex as the 54 & 56 with the extra leaf, the medio tiempo, giving this cigar a very full body with good balance. Not your typical Cohiba but very good just the same. The burn was almost perfect but corrected itself before reaching the halfway point. The cigar picked up strength after the half and I wondered if the long ash had anything to do with it. It was beginning to taste bitter so I got rid of the ash. I know that's supposed to be a no-no but the cigar did begin to mellow a bit after that and the bitterness disappeared. It had begun to burn unevenly before dumping the ash so I touched it up with my lighter. It smoked well for a while longer but let it go at the quarter mark. A very good smoke.
                   The 1966 had a dark, oily maduro wrapper. The draw was a little tight but smokable. Very strong, full bodied, toasty, nutty, earthy flavors. I had White Port with this cigar and it semmed to go well. The cigar began to burn a bit hot & I hoped it wouldn't be like that all the way through. The burn was even. The draw did get better, the cigar cooled down and the burn continued to be even. I didn't want the same thing to happen to this cigar so I dumped the ash about a third the way down. At the halfway point the cigar was burning beautifully and tasting great. This is a very full bodied smoke and needs a little time to age. It's smokable now but this cigar is not for everyone or at least not for the novice.
                   If I had to choose between these two cigars I wouls have to pick the Cohiba 1966, I prefer the size and can't wait to taste what it's going to be like in a couple of years.

                           Cohiba Behike 52

Cohiba Edicion Limitada 2011 (1966)

Doctor Cafe, La Habana (Restaurant Review)

2011-11-28T10:33:00.000-08:00

               Before going on my last trip to Cuba a friend of mine, Amir, recommended I try the paladar 'Doctor Cafe'. A frequent traveller to Cuba himself, he told me it was his favourite restaurant there. How could I not try it.
               It's a little difficult to find if you don't have the address and not all the taxi drivers know where it is. It's your typical paladar in residential Miramar where the only way you know if there's restaurant is by some tiny sign that's hard to see. I would also suggest you make a reservation because the place has only 6 tables, 3 on the patio & 3 indoors. The indoor tables have air-conditioning.
               The restaurant was originally opened by a doctor, hence the name. It's been around for a while, is well established and is known for it's outdoor grill and quality of food. This particular evening, two of the items they were offering were Turtle and Deer. The waiter recited the numerous offerings by memory. There is no menu because they shop for the day and don't know what's available to them from one day to the next. That's Cuba. I don't mind the menu changing daily but going for the first time it's a bit uncomfortable not knowing the prices ahead of time and I find it embarrassing to ask for them. In the end, the prices were reasonable but not cheap. We had a Chilean Cabernet that was marked up almost 3 times. The service was prompt and professional and the presentation of the dishes we had was excellent. The quality of the food was as my friend had said, very good, especially for Cuba.
               I started with the Ceviche which was a little tough but tasty & finished with the Grilled Turtle which was the best I've ever had. My date started with an Avocado Shrimp salad that was amazing and finished with the Filet Mignon which was just ok, I've had better. Both our meats and the vegetables were done on the grill and perfectly cooked. I wanted to try the Octopus appetizer but it would have been too much food so I opted for a Shrimp Cocktail for the middle of the table. Both of the Shrimp Appetizers were made with decent sized shrimps compared to the usual sizes I get around the city. One of our guests ordered a salad which was the best I've seen on the island .
                It's a comfortable place to eat & I guess, all in all, for the 110 cuc I paid, it was fair. I suppose 2 people with appetizers and main courses, with a bottle of wine, might be 60 - 80 cuc, depending on what you order. If you're counting your money, this may not be for you but if you want to eat well for a fair price, it's a must visit.

Doctor Cafe
Calle 28 #111 e/1ra y 3ra
tel. 05 268-0607 or 05 281-8263

The Grill Master

Shrimp Avocado Salad

Ceviche

Shrimp Cocktail

Mixed Salad

Filet Mignon

Turtle

Grilled Vegetables

Our Waiter

Taberna de La Muralla, Plaza Vieja, La Habana

2011-11-25T00:52:00.000-08:00

              When I feel like being a tourist I like to take a walk through Old Havana. I usually end up at this Pub-Brewery in Plaza Vieja, "Taberna de La Muralla". It's the only pub-brewery in Havana. It sits in one of the corners of the plaza at Calle Muralla & Calle San Ignacio. Just follow the sound of live music. There seems to be a band playing every time I go there. I realized on this last visit that the bands change every hour or so.
               Over the last few years they've transformed this beautiful but rundown plaza into the magnificence it is today or would have looked like. Durning all these restorations the pub has been there with the bands playing traditional Cuban music, "Buena Vista Social Club" style.
               The Taberna serves food but I don't find it to be anything great. It hasn't been very consitant through the years. The skewered meats & fish, what they're known for, are good most of the time but not always. They have; chicken, shrimp, lobster tail & pork on the skewer. I had the grilled chicken breast on my last visit & it was pretty good but it didn't come with anything. My guest had the filet of sole that didn't look very appetizing. The main reason to come is for the beer and to chillout. Light lager or Amber beer served in 3 litre cylinders with ice to keep it cold & a spout for dispensing or you can order by the pint. The food is not very expensive, just a few CUC per person. I can except it as a good accompaniment for the beer. This place is just a great spot to spend a couple of hours listening to music with a beautiful backdrop.

Video Clip.
http://youtu.be/oFOvU4eCtrk

Cafe Laurent, La Habana (restaurant review)

2011-11-20T17:23:00.000-08:00

                Just before my last trip to Havana I read a blurb about this new restaurant 'Cafe Laurent'. It was very positive so I decided to check it out. I had no address but knew it was close to Hotel Nacional. Fifteen minutes later after driving in circles and asking around, we finally found it. Just a tiny little sign in front of an apartment building was the only indication that a restaurant existed. We were cordially escorted inside the building and led into an elevator which took us to the penthouse.
                 Once you enter the apartment you forget where you are. You enter a large space which is the main dining room and you can see the room extend to the terrace. There is as much seating outside on the terrace as there is in the main room. Huge patio with a beautiful view. There is also a small bar to the side of the room with another much smaller terrace lined with a few stools. Very tastefully done, the walls are lined with old newspapers but it works. There was a television screen playing 'Chris Botti' in concert, low volume, good choice. To the back, towards the kitchen and bathroom, is a private room that can hold about 12 with it's own small balcony, bar and bathroom. Imagine what a great apartment this must have been.
                  The service was very pleasant. Right off the start, the waitress informed us that they had no meat because they were not happy with the quality available to them at the time. If that was true, I can appreciate that. If it was a lie, good move. Regardless, there was plenty to choose from. It was a tough choice to make but I went with the 'Lobster Cocktail' for my appetizer and the whole fried 'Red Snapper' for my main. I couldn't understand how they would fry a whole 1 1/2 lb. fish. I'm used to having it grilled or baked. My guest had the 'Cod Stuffed Pimentos' as her appetizer & the foil wrapped 'Baked Fish Filet' for her main course. When I got my appetizer it blew me away. There were about 1 1/2 lobster tails cut into large chunks, perfectly cooked with a perfect mayo based cocktail sauce on the side. That could have been dinner. The main course, the Snapper, was actually very good. I expected it to be dry but it was cooked just right. With a drizzle of olive oil, that was on every table, it was perfect. My guest's appetizer, the pimentos, were not as strong as I've had in the past. Usually anything with salted cod is quite strong but these were tasty. The fish filet she ordered was beautifully done. The fish was cut into cubes and placed into the foil package with onions, eggplant, white wine and other tasty treats. I won't get into the desserts on this post but we had the Crema Catalana that was to die for. An excellent sellection of homemade goodies. We had a bottle of Chilean Rose with our dinner and a bottle of mineral water, with 10% tip included on the bill, the total was 55cuc. I think that's an excellent deal for what we got. One the top of our list of favourite restaurants in Havana. Can't wait to go back.
                   Refreshing, a little different than the usual fair. The owner-chef, Victor, has worked with his partner Pepe for the last three years in Mexico, New Jersey and in Havana in El Templete, a very good restaurant on the Malecon behind Plaza de Armas. Victor says this is the beginning of a revolution or change in perception and quality of food available in Cuba (which really means Havana). I for one love it.

Calle M e/19 y 21 no.257 Penthouse
Vedado, La Habana
Tel.(537) 831-2090   832-6890

Interview
http://youtu.be/-pj4HMTC8xM

Looking at the entrance to the restaurant.

Looking at the bar with the small terrace to the left. Chris Botti
blowing his horn on the tv screen.

The Terrace.

Main Courses

Stuffed Pimentos

Lobster Cocktail

Whole Fried Red Snapper

Foil Wrapper Filet of Soul

The Sweethearts of Cuban Television

Angel Ramirez (artist) part 2

2011-11-13T09:51:00.000-08:00

It's been a year since I last visited Angel Ramirez. The last time I tried he was off on some exhibit. I caught him this time but I only dropped in to tell him hello. He seems to be in good health and in his usual laid back self.
He was born in Havana in 1954. He's a painter, engraver and creator of objects. He is a poet and a writer and ties in many of his pieces with ironic writings or poetry. In a lot of his works he uses recycled materials and paintings are often mixed with objects to produce a dramatic effect that needs to be seen in person. I have taken a lot of photographes in his studio but the photos aren't in 3D so you don't get the full effect. Angel has had many exhibits around the world and I'm hoping he comes to Toronto soon.
I hope you enjoy the new batch of pictures taken in his studio.

Jose Fuster (Artist) Part 2

2011-11-08T00:53:00.000-08:00

                   The project started in 1994. It started simply, he began fixing his house, a typical wooden structure you see a lot of outside the city. The first pieces, Alex told us, were placed on the outer wall and it spread out from there. One day, a neighbour came by and asked Jose if he could help him fix up the front of his house in the Fuster style. After that, another neighbour came to him and said "If you did it for him, why don't you do it for me" and it kepted growing from there. Now, 18 years later, it has become a successful urban project with most it being done with their own money.
                     Things were never easy and he often got hassled and fined by the government but since the erection on the "Olympus of The Five", things have been much better. The hassles have stopped and he actually gets support now. He has had a fair bit of press lately, being interviewed by several television stations and has had many exhibitions within and outside of Cuba. They even did a showing at the "Wine Country Film Festival" in Napa Valley where, Alex tells us, they met Al Pacino and other major movie celebrities.
                      Well, like I said. the door is always open at the Fuster house. It's a must visit but be prepared to spend 2 hours from the time you leave 5th Ave, walking to the house. The next time I visit, I would like to walk all the way to the ocean and explore the rest of the village, it's not too far.
5th Ave and 226 Street and go north, you can't miss it.

http://www.havana-cultura.com/en/int/visual-art/jose-fuster/cuban-artist-painter-and-sculpture

Jose Fuster (Artist) part 1

2011-11-08T00:50:00.000-08:00

                  Jose Fuster was born in 1946 in Caibarien, a little seatown on the north side of the island in the Villa Clara province. He moved to Jaimanitas, where he lives now, another fishing village but this one is 15km west of downtown Havana. Jaimanitas is now considered part of Havana.
                   Although I did not have the pleasure of meeting Jose on this trip, I have been told that he has an energy that emanates from his body and transfers to all those around him. It's easy to believe after seeing how he's transformed his simple wooden abode into a massive art museum. It's not just his house, although his is the most elaborate, it's more than two blocks of houses. When he began this project 18 years ago, he had no idea the community would come together to make this a neighbourhood affair. He also didn't limit himself to painting, he also took up drawing, etching, ceramics & sculpture & is influenced by Antoni Gaudi & Pablo Picasso. Pictures don`t give you the full scope of this project.
                   I came accross this artist by chance while surfing the internet one day and bookmarked it. I decided to visit him on my last trip this past october. He wasn't there but we were graciously received by his son Alex. He was an excellent host with the little time he had and took us on a private tour of his home/studio. He was expecting a bus load of Americans on a humanitarian mission. When Jose Fuster is at home, he always finds the time to welcome anyone who visits. I'm looking forward to meeting him on my next trip.
                     The road to Jaimanitas, calle 226, runs off of 5th Ave and is marked by a street sign showing the way to the Fuster house. His street is 2 blocks towards the ocean going north. As soon as you take a few steps you realize you're not in Kansas anymore. It almost starts immediately, most of the fronts of houses are decorated in glazed tiles and majolica ceramics and in some cases even the sides and tops of houses are wildly painted and adorned.
                      When you finally get to his house you can see from the outside that this is going to be something special. When you step through the entrance it feels like you're entering a fairy tale, like Alice in Wonderland. The front door is always open and the locals that come by don't take notice of the Jose house but when you arrive here for the first time your eyes don't know where to look. You have huge statues over 2 meters tall covered in colorful ceramic tile. Most of the stone walls and ground are adorned with art of some kind but then you look up. You have multiple levels and balconie and several covered roofs. There's also a relatively new colossal sculpture that now stands as a revelation "The Olympus of The Five", a tribute to the five Cubans imprisoned in the US. Jose's tribute to freedom.

This video clip features Alex Fuster, Jose's son.
http://youtu.be/jXka6JvHna0

This is a video clip of the interior of the property.
http://youtu.be/JhrcbyIk6o4

5th Avenue

The Walk to The House

The Front of The Jose Fuster House

A Bench Outside The House

The Wall in Front of The House

The Olympus of The Five

A Shot From The Top Balcony

Cohiba Maduro 5 & Romeo y Julieta EL 2007 Escudo (cigar reviews)

2011-11-07T20:45:00.000-08:00

                  It's already cold up hear in Toronto, Canada. It was -1 celcius last night but we braved a couple of smokes in my friend's well equiped garage. The smokes I tried were the Cohiba Maduro 5 Genio and the Romeo y Julieta EL 2007 Escudo.
                   I started with the Escudo thinking that the Maduro would be stronger. The Escudo packed a good punch. Started out fulled bodied and follows through consistantly with no variation until about 1 inch before the end and shortly after that mellows out. I hated putting it down but I couldn't hold it anymore. A great draw all the way through with a perfect burn and a beautiful wrapper. The ash fell only twice before I put it down. Hints of chocolate and leather. I'm going to enjoy smoking the rest of these cigars. GREAT
                   The Maduro in comparison, I wasn't crazy about. The wrapper, with it's 5 years of aging, looks beautiful, they honestly look great, oily and dark. It starts off full bodied as I expected with a woody taste but as I remembered them in the past, they have a bitterness that I'm not crazy about. The draw started decent but because of the roll being a bit off, the cigar burned unevenly & because of that, started to affect the draw.
It's not horrible and I'm sure they won't all be a bad roll, it's my taste. I prefer the non-cuban maduro that's a bit more on the sweeter side. I know these cigars are appreciated by many. I drank a decent Port with both smokes.

Quinta y 16 (cigar shop & restaurant)

2011-11-05T11:51:00.000-07:00

               I discovered 'Quinta y 16' a few years ago when I started exploring all the cigar venues around Havana. I still have a lot more to see. It wasn't until my Cuban friend Orlens brought me here that I began to be a regular visitor.
               A lot has changed since my first visit; the management, decor, direction, but what remains the same is that it's a great location to kick back and have a smoke. There's also a pretty good restaurant in the back with live music and I always plan my visits around lunch time. The dining area is covered but open air. There are also private air-conditioned rooms upstairs for larger parties. There's also a nice humidor with a pretty good stock (it used to be better) of cigars and a room with lockers to store the cigars you buy if you can't take them all with you.
               The food in the restaurant is not bad. The filet of fish is okay but my friend had the breaded pork cutlet that was quite good. I know, it's only pork, but we're in Cuba and sometimes you gotta go with the flow. The servers are in training so be prepared for them to try and upsell you to the point of almost being annoying. Be patient, that's what they train them to do.
                The shop now has an added feature, Carlos Robaina. He has been recruited as the PR man for the place and does a wonderful job. He knows everybody and everyone knows him. I've know Carlos for years and he's a great host. It's always a pleasure to visit with him and to tell you the truth, I go more to see him than for any other reason. For those of you who don't know him, he's the son of the the late Alejandro Robaina. The manager is Osmany who's always ready with a smile and maybe if you're lucky, a cigar that is rolled in the store. If you're in the market, you should pick up some of these smokes, they're wonderful, perfectly rolled and great tasting.
                 If you have the time, I recommend paying a visit to 'Quinta y 16' at the corner of 5th Ave and 16th street, you can't miss it. Have lunch, relax, have a smoke, remember, you're in Cuba.

The Restaurant

Carlos Robaina

Osmany

House Roller

The Humidor

La Catedral de San Cristobal, Habana Vieja

2011-11-01T23:47:00.000-07:00

Sitting prominantly in the square thats named after it, 'Plaza de La Catedral', this beautiful example of baroque architecture began as 'Catedral de La Virgen Maria de La Concepcion Inmaculada de La Habana', wow, that's a lot to remember. After dedicating the church to Christopher Columbus it was referred to as 'La Catedral de San Cristobal' and is known as that today.
The church was constructed by Jesuits (1748-77) on the site of another church. The two bells in the taller tower are said to have been made from gold, silver & bronze & emit a different sound because of it. Like many churches in Havana, the building material (blocks) includes coral. These blocks were collected by the edge of the ocean by slaves & cut into blocks. You can see the fossils imbedded in the stone.

In 1793 the church was elevated to a cathedral. The baroque interior is gone, having been changed in the 19th century but the facade remains the same. Copies of paintings by Rubens & Murillo appear on the altars as well as frescoes by Giuseppe Perovanni.

Admission is free. Open every day but the hours can change. Mass was 3 days a week.

Beth Shalom Synagogue, La Habana

2011-10-30T07:59:00.000-07:00

The Jewish community in Cuba is making a comeback after 37 years of Cuban Revolution. In the 1950's there were 15,000 Jews from all walks of life from families fleeing Europe in the early 1900's. After the Cuban Revolution almost the entire Jewish community left for Maimi & Israel, 90% of them. Today there are about 1,500 Jews in Cuba & most are senior citizen with about 75% concentrated in Havana and it's municipalities.
The Beth Shalom Synagogue, Gran Sinagoga Bet Shalom, was built in 1957 in an area in the Vedado district of Havana that was once a center of Jewish activity. With the coming of the revolution and the changing of the laws towards religion, the synagogue was neglected and by 1991, like many old buildings in Cuba today, was falling apart. Since 1992 however, the Synagogue has enjoyed a revitalization. Help came from the American Jewish Joint Distribution Comittee, a humanitarian organization. There were also wealthy Jewish donors from Miami. The group restored the building and it actually looks brand new. Today it contains the main community center and library with a nursery and educational activities to help bring back the youth into Jewish community. Services are held every week.

Cuban Cars (part 2)

2011-10-29T10:24:00.000-07:00

Hello Again, I just got back from a short trip to Havana. I still have to organize my fotos and video but wanted to leave you with something before I lose myself.
Many of you love the cars and send me lots comments, therefore I decided to post a few of the better pictures I took of them on this trip. I hope you enjoy them.

Finca Robaina

2011-10-20T10:57:00.000-07:00

At least a couple of times a year I make the trip out to Pinar del Rio from Havana. I almost always make a stop to the late Alejandro Robaina's farm that's now run by his grandson Hiroshi.

When Alejandro was alive I would often wander around the property and explore. I felt at times that Alejandro was being crowded, so I did my part by leaving the pack. It offered me great opportunities to see life on the plantation outside of the few hundred square feet that most people occupy when they visit the farm. I would take pictures, of course. Here are some images taken from the area on and around the Robaina property. Please enjoy.

Off a main road in San Luis, Pinar de Rio, is the entrance to the Robaina's property. Up until Alejandro's death, there was no sign. You either knew where it was or you had to ask. Hiroshi has since put a sign up by the road. Once on the property you drive on a long, winding, dusty dirt road for several minutes before coming upon this gate. This is the entrance to The Robaina's homes.

Tobacco crop in Novenber.

The road that winds around the property.

School.

Workers home.

Curing Barn.

Fixing a truck with whatever parts they can find to fit.

The Parts Department

Callejon de Hamel

2011-10-14T23:16:00.000-07:00

                   Tucked away in Centro Habana is a barrio known as Cayo Hueso. A small street, Callejon de Hamel runs through it off of Calle Hospital, betwwen San Lazaro & Concordia. Here, a Afro-Cuban Art & Community have evolved.
                  It all started in 1990 when artist Salvador Gonzalez Escalona, from Camaguey, decided to express himself by making sculptures from junk or spare parts lying around the city. He also painted wildly coloured murals covering the street completely. The street looks like one big art gallery. When Salvador started all this he never imagined things would take off the way they did. The whole community came together to create this Haven in the middle of the decaying city. Strong feelings of the African Religions are felt in the air; Santaria, Palo Monte & Abakua.
                  On Sundays the street bands of the barrio come to play in the early afternoon. That's the time to come. There is a large percentage of black (the religions being African) people but there's still a varied mix because of the Asian and Spanish influence in the country. If you want a seat come early but I would rather be walking around. I would feel trapped sitting down & I wouldn't be able to get pics from different angles. The pictures in this post are actually from 2 different visits. The houses on this part of the street have become homes to artists who have converted their livingrooms into galleries displaying their Art. You won't be the only tourists but it seems to be mostly locals. It's perfectly safe and a must see if you're in Havana on a Sunday. The show ends around 3pm.

Exposicion Colectiva Marinas 'Galeria Palacio de Lombillo'

2011-10-12T21:54:00.000-07:00

On my last trip to Havana in May, I came accross an exhibition of Seascapes by a collection of young painters. It is an old artform that's hardly used anymore. These young artists are rejuvenating it.
The Palacio de Lombillo, also known as Palacio del Conde Lombillo, is located in the beautiful Plaza de La Catedral. It's a colonial building which was constructed in 1746. The paintings were being shown on the ground floor. Admission: free

Artist Unknown

Jesus Hermida

title Oleo lienzo

Rene Lopez

title Silvero Playita

Rensol Gonzalez

title La Playa

Nelson Gonzalez Pujol

title Baracoa

Sergio Hernandez Moliner

title Embarcadero de Cojimar

Roberto Alfonso

title Arraigados por Naturaleza

Artist Unknown

Cars of Cuba

2011-10-06T10:04:00.000-07:00

             Ahhh, Cuba and it's cars. The thought of Cuba evokes thoughts of classic 50's automobiles in some people. They are also used as a backdrop for many tourism posters selling Cuba. Have you ever wondered why there are so many of these cars still around and why their owners love them so much and try to hang on to them for what seems a lifetime.
             After the revolution, Fidel decreed that no cars produced after the revolution could be bought or sold. What that meant was that the only cars that could be bought or sold would be pre-revolution. Russian cars, mostly Ladas, were available to people with government permission. Those people included government officials, atheletes, doctors.....
             Knowing this, it's now easy to understand why so many of these old cars are still around. Cuba is like a big antique car museum. At one time Cuba was the biggest importer of some of the most stylish and lavish of the American car models. However, more than 50 years have past and with the embargo still looming it's impossible to get parts for these cars. That's why in a lot of these cars you'll see Lada engines or parts from whatever fits. Cars can even be driving with 3 different size tires since they lack government controls. It's a free for all, as long as it drives it's ok. The black smoke that comes out of these things is enough to kill you. That's why so many city residents have asthma or other respiratory problems.
             Enough of that, I don't want to burst your bubble. Even though the government has recently changed the law to allow Cubans to buy and sell any car of any year, it will be a long time before Cubans abandon their classic 50s for a new model. Very few Cubans can afford to buy a car.
Enjoy the pictures.

La Imprenta, Habana Vieja (restaurant review)

2011-10-01T11:28:00.000-07:00

             A couple of trips ago I came accross a new restaurant by mistake. I had just come out of 'Conde de Villanueva' on Calle Mercaderes at around lunch time, turned right and just down the street on Mercaderes was 'La Imprenta'. I didn't know when we were walking in that is was their first day of business.
             The theme of the restaurant is that of a printing house with an old printing press and other antique objects strategically placed around the large dining area. The tables and chairs are letters of the alphabet and numbers. The decor is great. I didn't feel like I was in Cuba. I sat at the bar and got a great view of the entire restaurant. Behind the bar you can see the local 'Granma' newspaper available in several languages for you to read if you wish.
              As far as the menu goes, I haven't had a full meal. I did however on several occasions have the tapas and the Cuban pork sandwich and I can tell you I enjoyed them every time. Decent selection, tasty and very cheap. I saw a couple close by having a main course and remember thinking I have to come back and do a proper test in the future. For the time being, 'La Imprenta' is one of my favourite places for a quick snack. I'll write about it again when I return for a full meal.

The best pizza in Cuba is in Guanabo.

2011-09-28T17:04:00.000-07:00

           Hello again. This post will be about what I consiuder to be the best pizza in Cuba and actually it's better than some of the restaurants I've been to here in my hometown of Toronto, Canada. The place is called 'Piccolo' in Guanabo, about 20 minutes outside of Havana at the far end of the Playa del Este, the Eastern Beaches.
           Pizza is sold just about everywhere in Cuba and most of it is pretty bad by our standards. If you're looking to fill your belly or you don't know any better, you're okay. I think that all the all-inclusive hotels offer pizza as a food availabe 24 hours. Nowhere in all my travels in Cuba have I found a pizza that's as good as this. Not only is it good, it's been consistantly good through the years & has become a place to go to when my travels take me to Havana. No trip to the beaches excludes a trip to 'Piccolo'.
           Friends of mine discovered it several years ago on an all-inclusive trip to the Eastern Beaches. Not long after that I was spending 3 days at a house on the beach in Guanabo & decided to look for this restaurant. As luck had it, Piccolo was 200 meters away from the place I was renting. We were there every day. The pizzas are great and people tell me the pastas are good too. I will not eat pasta anywhere except when I cook it so this not a reflection of the restaurant. I trust the people who told me the pasta was good. Every trip I take to Havana that's more than a few days, I plan a visit to the beaches and take a meal at Piccolo and I recommend you do the same.

La Plaza de La Catedral, Habana Vieja

2011-09-07T16:22:00.000-07:00

                The "Plaza de La Catedral" is one of the most beautiful squares that I've had the pleasure of visiting in Cuba and always make a point of visiting it at least once every trip. The "Catedral de San Cristobal" is the highlight and namesake of the square. It's original name is "La Catedral de La Virgen Maria de La Concepcion Inmaculada de La Habana"(that's a mouthful). Since being dedicated to San Cristobal it's name changed to what it's known as today, "Catedral de San Cristobal" (and thank you for that). It was built by jesuits on the site of another church in 1748-77. From this side of the square you're only about 100 meters from thye Malecon. You can see it from the front of the church.
                 On the opposite side of the church is the building that has housed the "Museo de Arte Colonial" since 1963. The house was built in 1720 & was once the residence of Don Luis Chacon, the military governor of Cuba. The furniture housed within is a wonderful & extensive collection dating from the 18th-19th centuries, gathered from the great colonial mansions of Havana. It also includes some beautiful ceramics. Check it out even if it's only for the view you'll get from the upper level. It will make a great picture of the Catedral.
                  Jutting out from the side of the museum is a little dead end street called "Callejon del Chorro". Right at the very end of the street is the "Taller Experimental de Grafica". Created in 1962, it attracts many young artists & has become a meeting place for people in the arts. It's a workshop dedicating itself to the art of printmaking. Limited numbers of each print are made and some of the pieces are quite racy taking jabs at the current political situation in Cuba. I was actually surprised that some of the stuff was allowed. It's definitely worth a visit. Just walk in and look around. There's a whole bunch of pictures hanging on walls as soon as you walk in & you can see the presses a little further down. No one bothers you. The prices should be marked & are quite resonable, if you wish to buy.
                  On one of the sides of the square you have the Bar-Restaurant "El Patio" & some souvenir shops. The restaurant has tables with umbrellas on the square as well as on a covered patio & indoors with an inner courtyard. I haven't had anything more than a cappuccino & cigar sitting at one of the tables on the square so I can't tell you about the food but I wouldn't eat there. They always have a live band outside so it's a pleasant break after all that sightseeing. Beware, there will be someone wanting to do your caricature. Deal with it how you want, they're always pleasant. I have lots of them, anything you give them is appreciated.
                   Let's not forget the remaining side of the square, opposite the restaurant. In front of the Palacio de Lombillo (built in 1618) stands the statue of Antonio Gades, a famous flamenco dancer from Spain. He was born in 1936 and died in 2004. Why is this statue here?? I have often wondered. He was a communist & defender of the Cuban Revolution. He had strong personal & political ties with Cuba. Fidel Castro was his best man when he married Marisol. He spent many of his latter years in Cuba & weeks before his death was presented with the order of Jose Marti by Fidel Castro. His ashes are kept at the "National Pantheon of Heros of the Revotlution" in Havana.
                   Well, that's about it. Give yourself more than an hour if you want to see it well & a lot more than that if you want to relax with a coffee at the restaurant. I believe this to be one of the top 3 squares to visit in Havana.

La Catedral

El Patio

Souviner shop

Museo de Arte Colonial

The Statue of Antonio Gades

Taller Experimental de Grafica

Iglesia de San Francisco de Asis (La Habana)

2011-09-02T23:52:00.000-07:00

The "Iglesia de San Francisco de Asis" was originally constructed in 1719 & later reconstructed in 1730 in the Baroque style. The bell tower is 40 meters high & is topped with St.Helen holding the sacred cross of Jerusalem. The Protestant English used the church for worship while they ruled there in 1762. The catholics never used it again after that.

The church & the convent next to it reopened in 1994 after restoration. The Cathedral is now used as a concert hall for classical music performances on Saturdays @ 6pm & Sundays @ 11am, September thru June. The convent next to the church houses the Museo de Arte Religioso. It's quite an extensive collection & I was very surprised of the quality & variety of the pieces. For an extra CUC you can climb the bell tower. Do it, you'll have a great view if the city, especially the harbour & Plaza San Francisco. The convent has a couple of courtyards surrounded by porticos with furnishings dating back from the time of its inception scattered around.

The Church sits at one end of the Plaza de San Francisco right next to the Malecon. It's open daily to the public 9am-6pm with a 2cuc entrance fee plus another 2 if you want to use your camera. If you want a guide it's another CUC. I didn't use a guide and took a lot of pictures. It's a very large property with quite a bit to see. You could spend a good hour or more. I would go back and catch a concert one day.